1990s in Fashion

dress from Donna Karen's DKNY diffusion line,
Spring/Summer 1994

- Deconstruction

. 1970s styling and 1980s Japanese designer collection

. black, oversize, or shrunken, appear to be inside-out, uneven hemlines, exposed seams and slashes

- Greater variety of styles than ever before

. Magazines reveal the various themes, shapes and textiles

- 1st half decade= reintroduction of 1960s and 1970s revival styles- from miniskirts and flares to Hippy styles, platforms and Punk

Christian Lacroix's drwaing for his 'Bazar' collection,
Autumn/WInter 1994/95

- Eco fashions, ethnic styles, grunge, school uniforms and sportswear, subcultural styles (Ragga, B-boy, Teddy Boy, Surfers)

- In 1950s and 1960s- total looks (one designer from top to toe including accessories)

- In 1990s, stylists combine catwalk clothes with high street and ethic items

- Paul Smith

1980s in Fashion

Calvin Klein Autumn/Winter 1983/84

-Luxurious haute-conture and ready to wear clothing

-Main styles : short and fitted or voluminous and layered

-Evening wear
. highly decorated garments, body-conscious clothes, fetishistic corsetry and lacing

-Daytime
. padded-shouldered suits
. Versace- metallic mesh
. Giorgio Armani - crumpled suit, linen dress
. Franco Moschino- dresses covered with bras or teddy bears
. Ralph Laren, Perry Ellis, Calvin Klein, and Donna Karen- dressed the business women in comfortable clothes

Issey Miyake's layered look from 1982

- 2rd wave of Japanese designers : Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garcon/ Yohji Yamamoto
. oversize garments, loose fit, asymmetrical, oddly positioned sleeves and pockets
. black, ink blue, neutral creams and beige, a hint of bright red

- Christian Lacroix (mid 80s)
. translate historical dress into a modern form
. beading and embroidery workshops, button, craft textiles

- Vivienne Westwood

1970s in Fashion

- Emphasize on cut, construction and fabrics
- Knitwear
. Bill Gibb's zig zagged knit patterns + bright colors
. Chuncky hand knitted cardigans

- Short check flared skirt, "hotpants"
- Ralph Lauren's 'Polo' line for men and women suites.
-Early 70s- Trousers cut into 'flares'- tight around the thigh and widened from the knee downward
-From 1975, trousers- narrow and straight.
- 1st wave of Japanese designers arrived in Paris- layering and wrapping, lose, unstructured garments, peasant-style, wide legged drawstring trousers, quilted jackets.

- Dressy Occasion -fluid and more romantic (styles of 1930s)
. straight or flared Empire line dress
. Granny dress with a high neck
. halter neck dress
- Light Weight clothes for travel

Punks in London's King's Road, 1980

- Punk Clothes (sever youth unemployment)
. motorbiking outfit
. black trouser legs with chains, safety pins, zips
. spiky, colorful hairstyle

- More Dance studio and gyms
. sweatshirting rara skirt, bandeau tops, jumpsuits, loetards and leggings

Barbara Hulanicki's early 1870s designs for Biba

- "The New Romantics" -
. more relaxed simplicity
. strong use of bias cut and minimum seaming- a subtle interplay of body and fabric
. Britain- revive antique Edwardian whites (blouses, camisoles, petticoat)

- Ethical trends
. caftans, kimonos, muumuus = home style robes and comfort wear

-Platform Shoes

- Issey Miyake

1960s in Fashion

Yves SSaint Laurent's 1965 cocktail dress,
inspired by Mondrian's painting

- Stiff and geometric (Art Deco)

- Erotic- how much bare or almost bare flesh reveal

. skirts reached the upper thigh, necklines swooped low, tops were see-through.

- Early 60s

. Woman (Jacqueline Kennedy) suites = pastel colors, short boxy jackets, over-sized buttons

. Simple, geometric dresses
. shift dress, capri pants

. Menswear- wide ties with crazy pattens and prints

-Mid 60s

Mary Quant's checked mini-dress, mid-1960s

. Mary Quant's first mini skirt/ pinafores in stripe, checked or grey flannel cloth/ manish, ,hipster trousers

. skirts reached the upper thigh, necklines swooped low, tops were see-through.

. erotic- how much bare or (almost bare flesh) reveal

-Late 60s

. Andrew Courreges - "space look"

. Soft flower-print cotton, Laura Ashely country prints, lacy petticoats 

. Hippie Movement- bell bottom jeans, tie-dye, paisley/Indian/batik/animal prints
. fringed buckskin vest, gypsy-style skirts, scarves, bangles, headbands, sandals

-Material:

 paper fabrics, artificial fibers, plastic and metal discs held together with metal links, transparent plastics, patent leather, embroidered sheepskin

-Mary Quant

1950s in Fashion

- Woman preferred  casual, relaxed clothing over formal dress rules/ ready to wear

. button-up sweaters with simple necklines, fitted blouses, full knee-length skirts

. suites- high,notched lapel, narrow sleeves,high armholes

- "fragile femininity"

. Soft shoulders, stiletto heels, wrist-length gloves, pencil-slim skirts and little hats with veil and feathers.

 




 - Dresses (casually)

. Circle skirts, halter straps, small collars

. Evening wear- pastel hues, bold ruffles, tulle trim, velvet bows

. Nylon petticoats create fullness

. “trapeze dress- triangular, swinging dress (example: CD’s H-line of 1954- slender tunic-style suit with a slim skirt)

. Hubert Givenchy- the Sack - the trend of straghter-waist dresses

. Coco Chanel’s completely straight silhouette

. Empire line- teenagers

- Erotic focal point: hips (through clever cut over the figure beneath)

 - Men’s Fashion- Elvis Presley

. wild pegged pants and zoot suits

- Accessory

. pillbox hat, stoles, gloves, fur trimmings and adorned collars, brooches


- Emilio Pucci

1940s in Fashion

- WW2

- Detail, piping, false pocket

- High V-neckline

- Shape was square-shouldered, boxy, man-tailored= cut of uniforms

- Skirts: short, narrowly pleated, darted or gathered to emphasize a narrow waistline

- Suite + short skirt = to keep fabric to a minimum

- Slacks cut like men's trousers =popular

- Christian Dior's New Look of 1947
. 1860s corseted waists, full lied skirts, raised waistline, padded the bust and hip for curve.

- Men's fashion
."Edwardian" look, long fitted jackets buttoned high at the throat, tight trousers

-Accessory:
. Headscarves
. Shoes are heavy/ socks or bare legs replaced stockings

-Christian Dior

1930s in Fashion

Evening dress by Worth, 1930

-Influence of sunbathing- emphasis shifted from the legs to the back
. back were bared to the waist- halter neck 
. skirt was drawn tightly over the hips as to reveal the shape of lower rear area
. armholes-enlarged/ decolletage-deeper/1st backless bathing costume

-Influence of sports- tennis/skating/cycling costume
. lengths of the skirt changed-shorter than knee-length
. skirt with wide flares





-skirt remained perpendicular, wider at the shoulders and slender hips (tall girls)
. small head with a small curl at the back of the neck
. day dresses- 10'' above the ground/ evening dress- reached to the toe, metallic lame, plastic sequins and glass beads

-Long sleeves/"butterfly" sleeve dress
-bolero

-Fabric:
. cotton/woolen/broadcloth/growing use of synthetic fabrics/metallic lame
-Accessory
. cloche hat= OUT/ small plate shaped hat= IN
-Madame Gres (silk jersey for evening wear)

1920s in Fashion

-After the WWI in 1919

- 1925-revolution of short skirts with pleats, gathers, or slits for more mobility

- Masculine elements in female fashion

. Shingle/Eton Crop hairstyle and cloche hat

. boyish/flattened breasts and hips

. tubular dress/body=cylinder

. straight line chemise replaced corset

-Popular/New fabrics:

. natural fabric-wool/cotton

. rayon(artificial silk) stockings replaced silk stockings

-Gabrielle Chanel ("good working-class clothes"/sleek,unadorned look)

1910s in Fashion

-Softer than 1900s, soft drapery

-Hobble Skirt- narrow at the hem, shorter to the ankle

-V-neck opening

-Coat cocoon or Kimono shaped (oriental influence)

-Tunic over a long underskirt

-WWI- abandon the underskirt and just wear the tunic or overskirt by itself

- National Standard Dress- utility garment-metal buckles instead of hooks and eyes

-Accessory:
. Hat- fit the head closely- simple felts, turbans, and tulles
. Feather- stuck straight up into the air
. Footwear- Tango Shoes, stockings, gaiter, Laced shoes-lower heel/round toes/WWI

-Paul Poiret

1900s in Fashion

1900's Edwardian woman- feminine, flamboyant


- Corset and S-shaped stance 

- The skirt flares out towards the ground in the shape of a bell

-"Gibson Girl"- heavy bust and swirling skirt 

- Passion for lace in every part of the gown

-Day-time: whole body is concealed/ Evening dresses: extravagantly décolleté


- 1900s blouse
. adored with tucking and insertion
. bolero= popular
. sleeves=tight at the wrist and extend half over the hand


-Color: pastel shades of pink, pale blue or mauve, or black with small sequins swen all over it. 


-Material: crepe de chine, chiffon, mousseline de soie and tulle 

- Accessory
. the hair is built high 
. flat pancake hat projects forward (wigs/pads/human hair on the top) 
. hats being adorned with feathers (1 or more plumes) 
. feather boas are worn around the neck


-Men's wear(for formal occasion)

. still the top hat and the frock coat

. lounge suite worn with a homburg hat/straw hats

. trousers -short and narrow with permanent turn-ups and with a sharp crease in front

. collars of white starched linen - very high

- Charles Frederick Worth late 19th CE-1900s